Tyres, Brakes and Suspension » New rear tire time......a tale of woe

I finally decided to replace my RS4 rear with the new one I purchased at a good off season price last fall. The old tire was installed in August 2022, but was re-balanced by the dealership. During that shop visit, it appeared the mechanic dropped the wheel, at least, twice on the rear caliper (based on the paint damage). Otherwise, the rear wheel hasn't been touched since.

So, today, I cleaned the rear wheel, parked the bike in the good car spot and removed the muffler. Then, using a 3/8" drive breaker bar and a 6" extension, I went to work on the T50 lug bolts. The first one was scary tight, enough to make me fear the Torx bit would fail. The second bolt was similarly over torqued. At number three, the 6" extension sheared
Failed extension.JPG - Bild entfernt (keine Rechte)
leaving my T50 bit rather useless and the bolt still threaded to the wheel hub. My back-up plan was a T50 L-wrench and my 1.5-ton jack handle as a lever. I wimped out after 20~30 degrees of deflection on the wrench, but no bolt movement.

So, two out and three still in..........I'm off to the cheap tool store (Harbor Freight) for a "long as possible" 1/2" drive breaker bar and a T50 impact bit. I found a usable 21" long breaker bar ($12.99 on sale), but the bits looked like crap.........narrow ribs. Therefore, a detour to the big box hardware stores was in order, yielding no impact 1/2" drive bits, but a decent looking 3/8" drive T50 bit and an 1/2 to 3/8" drive adapter.

So, I return to my garage, still cursing the hopefully unemployed mechanic, and assembled my new tools. It was a steady, heavy load (my upper body weight) and the 21" breaker bar, but finally the T50 bolts loosened. According to spec, they should have only been torqued to 60 NM (~42 ft-lbs). But, honestly, they were torqued at or beyond car or truck wheel levels.

Hopefully, tomorrow, I'll make it to my friends to get the new tire mounted. Then, I get to play with my new Marc Parnes wheel balancer.

I have had same mishap changing tyres of the car, re-sized to T-bar 3/4" which I doubt I ever gonna make break . . .
Best of luck with your bolts, buy a proper high-torque T50 bit as well

Maybe a battery operated impact gun would help. That's what I ended up using on a troublesome front sprocket.
I feel your pain.

I always make a point of removing wheels at home before taking the wheel in for a tire change. I torque them properly at home when I install. In my neck of the woods the tire places are only too happy to hammer away with an air tool set to max torque at the wheel bolts. I feel for the OP.

Zitat von RS_Lars im Beitrag #2

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I have had same mishap changing tyres of the car, re-sized to T-bar 3/4" which I doubt I ever gonna make break . . .
Best of luck with your bolts, buy a proper high-torque T50 bit as well

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Zitat von L2RKE im Beitrag #3

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Maybe a battery operated impact gun would help. That's what I ended up using on a troublesome front sprocket.
I feel your pain.

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I always use my Milwaukee M18 impact to remove my BMW lug bolts. When reattaching them, I properly torque them with a quality torque wrench.

Zitat von Steady Eddie im Beitrag #4

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I always make a point of removing wheels at home before taking the wheel in for a tire change.

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When bolts have been over tightened that much, are they weakened?
Do they need to be replaced?

Zitat von MrVvrroomm im Beitrag #7

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I always use my Milwaukee M18 impact to remove my BMW lug bolts. When reattaching them, I properly torque them with a quality torque wrench.

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Zitat von Lee im Beitrag #9

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When bolts have been over tightened that much, are they weakened?
Do they need to be replaced?

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Need to replace my road 5 Michelin, ordered road 6 for fitting when 18k service carried out next month, they've only done 7k against my usual 10k per set.
I will take both wheels off and clean brakes, regrease front bearings and clean rear assembly, then refit before dealership visit.
I always get assistance from my son with the rear wheel, bike is in gear but also have plenty off pressure on the rear brake to keep forces against transmissin to a minimum, I Hope!
Front tyre is within 1000 miles of needing replacement, rear could do at least 2k but I prefer to change as 'a set' anyway but would have done 10k.
Could split the service and replacement but it seems easier in getting both at same time
This is the first set on any R1200 that has not worn equally, front and rear, maybe my local use and lower speed across hills of dartmoor doesn't wear the rear as much as my previous european holidays with a heavy bike but more load on the front tyre?
Quite a worry when the main dealership has seemingly caused you so much of an issue which rarely surfaces until much later from the work completion.

I spent a career as a mechanic. Would you try to spin off lug nuts on your car with the wheels in the air? Of course you wouldn't.

Whomever installed your rear wheel last severely over-torqued it.

My motorcycles lugs are all properly torqued. I used 1/2" Milwaukee M18 impact to remove them. It literally takes a bump of the trigger to spin them out. There's no chugga-chugga-chugga of the tool.

Zitat von Steady Eddie im Beitrag #11

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Zitat von Lee im Beitrag #9

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When bolts have been over tightened that much, are they weakened?
Do they need to be replaced?

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Good point. Not sure I'd trust those bolts after they've been over stressed, and what about the female threads in the hub?
Not to mention the alloy wheel itself...

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Only hand tools allowed on my bike.

Loose wheels and tyres to My Man.

Yesterday I swapped out the winter wheels on my car and happily used a GUN to remove the bolts. After removing the locking wheel bolts by hand.

Always install wheel bolts with my fingers to guarantee no threads are crossed. Then may use a leccy gun or drill to spin the bolts in at lowest setting. Always finished off with a torque wrench.
Success is guaranteed.